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Friday, July 25 2008

Distance to Power, Somewhere in the Middle

One of the book that sits on my night stand in the pile "to read" is a book by Geert Hofstede, called Cultures and Organizations, Intercultural Coorperation and its Importance for Survival. Hofstede is one of the most invoked gurus of intercultural communication, and although I yet have to read the book, I have already been in contact with his theory, one pillar of which is the subject of this post.

Hofstede measures differences in cultures using 4 different scales. Power Distance, Individualism, Masculinity and Uncertainty Avoidance. I had never until recently paid much atttention to those in my own backyard (it is always easier to point out these things in others) but the organisation of the Wikimania conference did bring me face to face with the very real differences in Power Distance in my work environment.

I work for an American-based organisation. Although it is not "per se" exclusively American, it draws most of its work structures from the American way of management, a structure where the distance to power is rather small. The wiki-culture which underlies some of the work behaviours in the organisation is also a very flat kind of structure, where people, regardless of their place in society, their educational background or their age are considered at the same level. As such, Wikimania (the International Wikimedia Conference) leaves a lot for volunteers of all horizons to organize, whether it is the program of the conference or various other aspects, such as promotional material or speakers invitations.

This year, Wikimania took place in Alexandria, Egypt, in partnership with the Library of Alexandria. And working with Egypt brought about a challenge that I did not expect, that of dealing with a very different structure of Power Distance. As mentionned, Wikimedia (the organisation) is a rather flat structure, it is easy for staff to talk to their bosses and vice-versa, and rapidity and rationality of communication often prevails over following tortuous (or even straight) hierarchical paths. The Egyptian culture, on the other hand, has a very big distance to power. Which means that people at the top of the hierarchy issue very clear directives, while people at the bottom of the hierarchical scale will not act without approval from "above". The French Power Distance index is somewhere in the middle, more distant than the US, but flatter than the Egyptian [1] .

This made for an extremely interesting constellation in exchanges between the wiki-based (and/or American) team, the local Egyptian team and myself. As a French, I was often torn between the understanding I had of the Egyptian need to refer to authority before making any kind of decision, while at the same time having to deal with the fact that Egyptians had trouble understanding why some people were empowered to make decisions without a title that would confer them this authority, or without any other mandate than the one they had given themselves. I realized how strongly my culture played a role in interacting with all parties.

After having analyzed both sides' expectations, it was rather easy for me to act with each side as they expected, but I found it extremely difficult to be the person in the middle, and to convey the culture differences which should have been respected. With Egyptians, it was very unnatural for me to try and flatten the relationships as would be expected in the culture of the organisation of Wikimania. With wiki-based and/or Americans, it was very unnatural for me to try and convey the existence of power distance necessary to understand relationships with the Egyptian locals.

Of course, this is a generalization of what happened in the organisation of this conference, as it is extremely difficult to put people in one or the other category, but it showed me how entrenched some of my cultural traits are, and how difficult it is, if you find yourself halfway between two diametrically opposed cultures, to try and bridge the gap, no matter how well you understand both cultures.

Notes

[1] See the different indexes on this table, where Arab countries have a Power Distance Index of 80, France of 68 and the US of 40

Thursday, July 24 2008

When it comes to roots

The last few weeks have been hectic, as I was working on the 4th annual Wikimedia conference, Wikimania. It happened this year in Egypt, in Alexandria. And it took all of my time for the past two months.

So although I gave a glimpse of my Egyptian travels, I never got to write about the most important thing that happened to me in Egypt. Maybe because that thing is a thing of the heart rather than the mind, and it takes a long time to process, or better, it's harder to put into words. Now here I am, sitting back at home, looking back at the past few weeks.

Alexandria, as I explained, stretches along the Mediterranean, white city against blue skies, full of life and bustling with noises. It is a city with a heart and the Egyptians are simply amazing people. In the time I spent there, I was overwhelmed with a warmth I have seldom felt anywhere while being a "tourist" or rather, a "foreigner".

To try and put things in perspective, I have to go back on another case of being a foreigner. About ten years ago, while as was living in green Austria, I left for a few days to go to Italy. Arriving in Italy, I suddenly felt as aif a wieght had been lifted from my mind and heart, it was the first time of my life that I felt so strongly about my Southern roots. I attributed it to the latiness of Italy in contrast with the Germanic-ness of Austria.

There are few countries where I have really felt at home. France of course, Italy is definitely next on the list. Germany today is home, but it does not feel like home (maybe I should write about this some day). And to my greatest surprise, Egypt was one of those "feels like home" countries. Of course the language and some parts of the culture are foreign to me. But the heart feels right. Maybe because of shared Mediterranean roots. Most of the Egyptians I have met, those who took care of me and showed me their country, shared their culture, whether by walking in the streets or sitting for breakfast in a local restaurant are simply incredible people.

When it comes to experiencing the Arab world, I have been to Marrocco and Tunisia, albeit very shortly in Tunisia, and although both countries are still very much impregnated with French, and communication is somewhat easier, I did not experience the same well-being as I did in Egypt.

I am a bit stuck with words to describe it. Maybe it is the constant smiles, direct from the heart, maybe it is just some strange recognition of common qualities that are inherited with the sun. Maybe it is simply a fluke, some unexpected but real turn of chance that allows for understanding and agreement. Shared insights, shared values, which place the human experience before everything else.

It was hot, I hate hot. It was warm, I loved that warmth. I know that amongst the craziness of organizing a conference, I have made friends, friends who have impressed me with their honesty, their dedication and their truth. Friendships I will cherish across borders, seas and times.

Tuesday, May 20 2008

A Dance With Death

I spent three days in Alexandria, Egypt two weeks ago. It was my first time in Egypt. And since my quick stop in Naples a few years ago, the first time I thought my life was really in danger by *just* crossing the street. As a matter of fact, no tourist or unpracticed individual should ever try to be a full-fledged pedestrian in Egypt, or a driver, for that matter. Unless you're suicidal, or like Russian roulette. The first contact I had with the driving habits happened at 3 am, when I landed in Borg-El-Arab, the far-away airport for Alexandria. A taxi was waiting for me, which is always a great relief when arriving in an unknown country at odd hours. The driver was very nice, and listened to French music (from old French crooners to Emilie Jolie, the Halliday version). And he drove without lights. I mean, it was 3 in the morning, and it was night. And the road was not exactly a very new highway, but rather a bumpy road full of strange holes, not mentionning the in-the-middle-of-the-road boulders or unknown lying objects. After a few kilometers, I asked him. "Why are you driving without lights?" To which he answered this very obvious thing: "Well, there are lights on the road." And sure enough, the highway we were driving on was all lit up, all the way from borg-El-Arab to Alexandria. But still, it was 3 o'clock in the morning, and no-one had lights. And I couldn't see them well. And those trucks we passed (with no lights) were looking very sleepy, hovering from one side of the road to the other without warning. But that was just a night trip, and you only really understand the extent of skills needed to drive in Alexandria in broad daylight. Which happened the day after, when the friends I was meeting there came to get me.

Alexandria is a very long city stretching along the Mediterranean. Its biggest street is a 3 to 7 lane (each direction) boulevard along the sea. It is the main artery in the city, which allows you to go from the citadel and presidential palace on the one end to the Montazah gardens on the other. Along the 20 km or so of this street, there are no red lights (although I must say that the meaning of street lights in Egypt is a theoretical concept). And no zebra crossing. None. Maybe one or two pedestrian bridges? Anyway. In order to go anywhere in Alexandria, you *need* to take this street. And if you don't yourself have a car, you need to take the bus, or the micro-buses (hop-on taxis that cruise the street). And, to do so, at one point, you *must* cross the street. And risk your life. As indeed, in Egypt, crossing the street, as well as driving, is an art. Something of a dance with death. I would have given my shirt to be able to film the traffic from above, and watch the impromptu choreography of it. Man and machine, forever avoiding each other. It is really an amazing sight, something of an endless ballet. Cars smoothly fitting themselves in one small opening in the traffic, or firmly pushing their way into a lane, bumpers flirting with other bumpers, carosserie flirting with people's feet or behinds. Since then I learned that Egypt had one of the highest mortality rates caused by traffic... Deadly choreography indeed.